






The 12th Istanbul Biennial Until November 13 Untitled This year's Biennial explores the rich relationship between art and politics, focusing on artworks that are both formally innovative and politically outspoken. Major themes are war, revolution and social upheaval. Curated by Adriano Pedrosa and Jens Hoffmann, the show is composed of five group exhibitions and more than 50 solo presentations, with a total of more than 500 works. Antrepo 3 and 5 in Tophane (take the tramway to the Tophane stop) Converted warehouses next to the Istanbul Modern on the Bosphorus Open Tuesday- Sunday, 10-19: Thursdays until 22. Closed on Mondays. Istanbul Modern Museum Tophane/Salıpazarı along the Bosphorus (within walking distance) Privately owned museum devoted to modern Turkish painting and photography. Permanent painting exhibition is worth a look. Until January 22 Dream and Reality– Modern and Contemporary Women Artists from Turkey The exhibition centers on the position of women artists in modern and contemporary art, offering a new, alternative perspective on the sociocultural history of Turkey. The Modern has an excellent albeit expensive café/restaurant with terrace and superlative view (unless a cruise ship blocks it) that can be accessed from its own staircase. Highly recommended. Open 10 am -12 midnight Monday-Saturdays & 10 am- 6 pm Sundays. Sabanci Museum Atlı Köşk – Emirgan Until December 31 Sophie Calle: For the Last and First Time Running concurrently with the Istanbul Biennial, this show by the renowned contemporary French artist focuses on Istanbul, exploring the last “visions” of people who are visually handicapped and the “inhabitants of Istanbul who have never seen the sea”. Out along the Bosphorus in a beautiful setting, the former mansion of one of Turkey’s richest industrialists has been transformed into a fine art museum with a good permanent collection of Turkish paintings and calligraphy and an active special exhibition program. Go by ferry or bus to Emirgan. In the museum, MuzeChanga, one of the best restaurants in Istanbul serves inventive, original dishes in a very appealing setting with a terrace looking over the gardens to the Bosphorus. Expensive. Open everyday (except Mondays) 10 - 19; Sundays 12-18 Pera Museum Meşrutiyet Caddesi No 141, Tepebaşı (within walking distance) Open Tuesdays-Saturdays 10-19 and 10-18 on Sundays. Closed Mondays. 15 October 2011 - 8 January 2012 Osman Hamdi Bey and The Americans Archaeology, Diplomacy, Art Based on the intersecting lives of painter, archaeologist and museologist Osman Hamdi Bey and American archaeologist and photographer John Henry Haynes, as well as Prof. Hermann Vollrath Hilprecht, the exhibition, focuses on the first excavations American archaeologists conducted in Ottoman lands -Assos and Nippur- and the diplomatic relations between the two countries, showcasing a rich selection of paintings by Osman Hamdi Bey, archaeological photographs and drawings from the 19th century, letters, travel journals, and archaeological artifacts. A privately owned museum with an impressive 19th century facade, the Pera also houses a collection of Turkish and Orientalist paintings, ceramics and weights & measures. Tearoom without windows that serves sandwiches, salads & pasta dishes on the weekends. Close by the pleasant Istanbul Culinary Institute resturant serves interesting takes on classic Turkish dishes at reasonable prices. Topkapı Palace Museum Easiest to walk up from Gulhane tramway stop. Sacred Trusts A beautiful and moving exhibit of a variety of religious relics and objects in a stunning suite of tiled domed rooms with live religious music. The newly reorganized and reinstalled Treasury section has excellent explanations and labels for a collection of breathtaking objects & jewels. The Harem exhibits, alas, have not been improved yet but at least you don't have to be herded through with a guided group any more. In the lower gardens, Konyali Restaurant serves traditional Turkish food. Not a bargain though. Konyali also has a very upscale restaurant in Kanyon shopping center. In the first courtyard next to Haghia Irini is the first-class Karakol with tables outside on the lawn and pretty, high-ceiling rooms inside the restored 19th century police station, serving inventive gourmet fare. Be prepared to splurge though; a meal for two will run close to $100. Istanbul Archeology Museums Take the tramway to Gulhane, enter the park walls and walk up Osman Hamdi Bey Yokusu towards Topkapi Palace. In the Light of Day: 8000 Years of Istanbul Fascinating exhibit of recent finds from as early as 6000 BC through the Ottoman era, including the fabulous discovery of the lost Byzantine harbor at Yenikapı and numerous wooden boats dating from 1000 AD. The grand 19th century Archeology Museums are arranged around a beautiful courtyard with a simple cafe. A lovely place to sit and ponder antiquity. Open 9-5 but last entrance is at 4. Closed on Mondays Sadberk Hanim Museum Piyasa Cad. No: 27- 29 Büyükdere 18 November 2011–15 April 2012 Images in Terracotta Greek and Roman period terracotta figurines Valuable archaeological and ethnographic collections housed in 19th century wooden mansions on the Bosphorus. Excellent collection of Iznik ceramics. Open 10-5. Closed Wednesdays. Try going by ferryboat from Eminönü to Sariyer to escape heavy traffic on the coastal road. Santralistanbul The Golden Horn-Beyoglu shore The first Ottoman power plant complex has been refurbished as an art & cultural center. Kids will have a blast at the Energy Museum, walking around the giant turbines and playing with the cool-looking retro gauges. Two cafe/restaurants --Otto and Tamirhane . Extensive gardens make it a good place for lively children. Until January 15 Climate Change: The Threat to Life and A New Energy Future From the American National History Museum of New York, this exhibition addresses visitors of all age and presents the effects of the climate change for future generation. Open 10-10 Tuesday through Sunday. Shuttles leave every 20 minutes from Ataturk Cultural Center at Taksim. Located beyond the Rahmi Koc Museum & Miniaturk so don't go through Eyup. Rahmi Koç Museum Sütlüce on the Golden Horn Eclectic, well-displayed collections related to industry and technology with many hands-on activities for children. Lots of fun! The Museum has a wonderful setting on the Golden Horn and two good although rather pricey restaurants: the cozy Café du Levent for a Parisian feel and Halat for a superb terrace on the Golden Horn. 10-5 Tuesdays-Friday; 10-7 Weekends. Closed Mondays. Can be reached by taxi or Sishane-Alibeykoy minibus. Rezan Has Museum Kadir Has University , Cibali on the Golden Horn Open 9-6 everyday Directly across the Ataturk Bridge from Galata on the road to Eyup. The Rezan Has Museum is built over an 11th century Byzantine Cistern now used to house a collection of small archeological objects. |